Summit of Kebnekaise

Climbing Kebnekaise – a guide to Swedens highest mountain

Climbing Kebnekaise is an experience that combines beautiful nature with a real physical challenge. Whether you choose the western route or the more technically demanding eastern route, there is something for everyone who wants to reach one of Kebnekaise’s peaks.

If you’re hiking Kebnekaise for the first time, there are a few important things to consider. Most people opt for the western route during the summer, as it’s the more popular choice. However, if you’re looking for a more adventurous experience, you can tackle the eastern route with a guide. STF’s experienced guides will lead you through an exhilarating journey, including glacier crossings and sections along a via ferrata—a protected climbing route equipped with fixed cables, ladders, and bridges, designed to make traversing steep mountain terrain safer and more accessible.

Trying to reach the peaks of Kebnekaise during winter requires a completely different level of knowledge and should not be attempted unless you are familiar with Sweden’s mountain environment in winter time. Regardless of the route and time of year, you must respect the alpine environment, where the weather can change quickly, and the hike takes place at high altitude. Proper equipment, physical stamina, and good knowledge of the conditions are essential before you embark on a summit attempt.

STF Kebnekaise Mountain station

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The western or eastern route of Kebnekaise

To reach one of Kebnekaise’s peaks, there are two main routes: the western and eastern routes, both starting at STF Kebnekaise Mountain Station.

The western route of Kebnekaise: The western route is the most common way to Kebnekaise’s summit. It covers a distance of 18 kilometers round trip and usually takes between 10 to 15 hours. This is a physically demanding hike with an elevation gain of about 1800 meters, as you ascend and then descend 300 meters before reaching Kebnekaise. The terrain is alpine, featuring varied surfaces like snow, ice, lots of rocks, and steep, uneven terrain, which often makes the hike feel longer and tougher than the distance suggests. However, the western route is not as technically demanding as the eastern route. Along the way, you pass streams, mountain heath, rocky ground, and steep slopes before reaching the summit. Read more about the western route here.

The eastern route of Kebnekaise: The eastern route is a technically challenging hike, even for the experienced hiker and climber, and if you don’t have the necessary skills, you should go with a guide. The hike takes between 8 to 12 hours and is 15 km round trip, with an elevation gain of 1500 meters. The eastern route differs from the western one as it crosses glaciers and snowfields, requiring the correct equipment and knowledge of glacier travel techniques. There is also a climbing section secured with a Via Ferrata, which requires specific gear. Read more about the eastern route here.

Guided tour of Kebnekaise

The two peaks of Kebnekaise

Kebnekaise has two peaks, which one is higher varies depending on the time of year.

The southern peak of Kebnekaise: The south summit is by far the most common choice. Its height varies throughout the year because the summit is a glacier.

The northern peak of Kebnekaise: Reaching the north summit is more technically challenging, as you cross an exposed ridge. This requires advanced skills and some equipment. The height of the north summit does not fluctuate like the south summit, as it is solid rock, not a glacier.

Kebnekaise in summer vs. winter

Climbing Kebnekaise in summer or winter presents two different challenges, both worth experiencing, but for beginners, a summer summit attempt is easier.

Kebnekaise in summer: Summer is preferable for those less experienced, as more people hike the trails, the paths are well-marked, daylight lasts longer, and the temperatures are milder. However, the hike is still demanding and requires preparation in terms of training and the right equipment.

Kebnekaise in winter: In winter, the ascent is done with touring skis and skins to climb the mountain. Due to snow and ice conditions and shorter daylight hours, more equipment and experience are required. For a winter ascent, we recommend taking the eastern route with a guide. The western route is not ideal in winter, as it crosses several avalanche areas and rocky, wind-exposed sections.

Practical tips for climbing Kebnekaise

Climbing Kebnekaise requires planning and preparation, regardless of whether you attempt it in summer or winter. Here are some important things to keep in mind:

  1. Physical fitness: You need to be in good shape to handle a long day of hiking or skiing in steep, varied terrain. Prepare with longer hikes or endurance training such as running, cycling, or skiing, ideally with a backpack.
  2. Packing for summer: Wear good hiking boots, windproof and waterproof clothing, warm layers, and spare clothes to change into in case of sweaty or wet conditions. Pack energy-rich food, drinks, and a first aid kit. Don’t forget sunscreen, a hat, a map, and a compass. Bring at least two pairs of gloves; at high altitudes, it can be cold even in summer, and it’s nice to have dry gloves to switch into.
  3. Things to consider during winter: Don’t forget snow protection, such as a buff for your face. It’s important to have avalanche equipment and knowledge of how to use it if you’re heading out into more exposed parts of the mountain.
  4. Weather conditions and safety: Regardless of the season, the weather can change quickly. Always bring extra clothes and closely follow the weather forecasts before setting out. Never go out in conditions you can’t handle or don’t feel comfortable in. A wind shelter is lightweight to carry and provides extra warmth if something goes wrong. Read more about mountain safety here.
  5. Food and drink: Bring enough food and water for the whole day. Quick energy sources like nuts, energy bars, and chocolate are great to have on hand for both summer and winter climbs. A thermos with something warm is always a good idea. Pack extra food in case you are delayed by bad weather.
  6. Guide or not: If you are unsure about the terrain or lack experience with mountain hiking or summit attempts, book a guided tour, especially if you plan to take the eastern route or ski in the winter. Book a guide through STF Kebnekaise Mountain Station.

The western route to Kebnekaise

Distance and time
The Western Route is a physically demanding hike, covering a total distance of about 18 km round trip, with an elevation gain of approximately 1800 meters. The terrain is very rocky, uneven, and steep, which often makes the hike feel longer and tougher than the distance suggests. The hike takes between 10 to 15 hours, depending on physical fitness and individual conditions. Some may complete the hike faster, while for others it can take longer. Prepare for a long day outdoors.

Trail layout and terrain
The Western Route is the most common path when climbing Kebnekaise’s south summit independently. The trail starts westward into Kitteldalen, following Kittelbäcken. After passing the Vierranvarri mountain, the trail descends into Kaffedalen, from where it follows a nearly straight line up to the summit. The steepest ascent begins after Kaffedalen, with a 400-meter climb to the Old Summit Hut, and another 200 meters to the summit glacier.

At times, there are large water flows in Kittelbäcken and Jökelbäcken, especially in the afternoons. Heavy rainfall, spring thaw, and glacier melt can make crossing the streams difficult. Talk to the guides at the mountain station before heading out to avoid being stranded. Trekking poles and wading shoes are useful. Do not cross barefoot, as you may injure yourself.

The first 5 km of the trail up to the pass between Tuolpagorni and Vierranvarri are marked with red-painted stones and rock piles. Summer can bring poor weather and low visibility, making the trail markers hard to see, and in winter, they are entirely covered by snow. Therefore, it is important to be able to navigate with a map and compass or GPS. After about 4 km, you reach the bridge over Kittelbäcken and the beginning of the stone staircase built by Sherpas from Nepal between 2017-2019. From the end of the staircase, the trail is marked with aluminum poles with red reflectors.

Despite these improvements, it’s important to be aware that the trail passes through high alpine terrain, where weather and wind can change quickly. Always carry a map and compass or GPS, and don’t rely on having cell phone coverage along the trail.

Once the snow has melted off the summit, crampons are needed to stand on Kebnekaise’s south peak. The summit is narrow, steep, and very exposed. Show respect to other summit hikers, have the right equipment, and be cautious.

Safety and winter ascents
Being in an alpine environment like Kebnekaise increases the safety risks for you and your companions. You should carefully plan your summit attempt and ensure you have the necessary equipment and food in case of an accident or if your hike takes longer than expected. If you are in distress and need help, mountain rescue/alpine mountain rescue will assist you, reachable through the police at 114 14 or 112. Be prepared for rescue efforts to take time, as mountain rescue personnel may not always be able to reach you immediately. So, be prepared, avoid venturing out in bad weather, and listen to the recommendations of those with more experience in alpine environments.

If you plan to climb Kebnekaise in winter, we recommend taking the Eastern Route with a guide.

The eastern route to Kebnekaise

Distance and time
The Eastern Route is a shorter, unmarked trail of 15 km round trip, estimated to take about 8-12 hours depending on physical condition and the season. It presents significantly more challenges than the Western Route, with difficult sections such as crossing the Björling Glacier and climbing along the Via Ferrata. The trail’s accessibility can vary greatly from year to year and with the season.

Recommendation to go with a guide
For those without experience in glacier hiking and climbing, it is strongly recommended to go with a guide. STF Kebnekaise offers guided tours that include all necessary safety equipment, such as a backpack, poles, harness, helmet, and crampons (if needed). In winter, the same path is used for ski ascents.

We advise against attempting the Eastern Route without a guide from STF or an authorized mountain guide (SBO). These guides have extensive knowledge of the mountain, current conditions, technical sections, and the trail route.

Risks and safety requirements
Hiking the Eastern Route involves more risks that require specific knowledge and equipment. One of the greatest hazards is rockfalls, which are difficult to predict during the climb. The glacier crossing, where crevasses and snow bridges can collapse, is also a risk. Since the glacier is constantly shifting, its structure changes from year to year, making it necessary to have the proper knowledge and equipment for safe glacier travel.

Maintenance and safety at the Via Ferrata
STF Kebnekaise owns and maintains the Via Ferrata system, which is inspected every other year and checked before each guided tour. However, the system is not inspected at other times, so STF is only responsible for safety during its guided tours. Using the Via Ferrata without STF or SBO guides is at your own risk.

Weather conditions and equipment requirements
Kebnekaise is an alpine environment where weather conditions can change rapidly. Cliffs that are sunlit and dry one moment can quickly become covered in snow and ice. This requires additional equipment and knowledge to navigate safely in this environment. Bring gear and clothing for the worst possible weather. If you are unsure about the clothing or equipment the guides at STF recommend for a summit attempt, check out the information sheets for the guided activites on the STF Kebnekaise Mountain Station website.

Contact for more information
For questions regarding equipment or safety aspects, feel free to contact the sports department at Kebnekaise Mountain Station for more information and recommendations.
Phone: 0980-550 00
Email: kebnekaise.sport@stfturist.se

FAQ

Can you climb Kebnekaise without a guide?

During summer, you can hike the Western Route without a guide. The Eastern Route and winter climbs are best undertaken with guidance due to challenging conditions.

What equipment is required to reach the summit?

To reach Kebnekaise’s summit, essential equipment includes hiking boots, multiple layers of clothing, crampons or microspikes, and in winter or early spring, you’ll also require avalanche safety gear (and the knowledge on how to use it). Trekking poles are good for stability when wading. GPS, map and compass are recommended. Talk to the guides at STF Kebnekaise Mountain Station for more detailes.

How and where can I stay when I want to climb Kebnekaise?

Stay at STF Kebnekaise Mountain Station, which offers accommodation, meals, and gear rentals to prepare for the climb.

How much does it cost to climb Kebnekaise?

The cost of climbing Kebnekaise varies based on your chosen options. If you plan a self-guided climb, you’ll primarily pay for accommodation, meals, and transportation to the mountain station. Guided tours, which are recommended for the more challenging routes and winter climbs, involve additional fees.

I want to climb Kebnekaise’s northern peak. How do I get there?

Reaching the Northern Peak involves more technical and exposed climbing, requiring advanced skills and gear.

How do I get to Kebnekaise Mountain Station?

You can reach the station by hiking or skiing from Nikkaluokta. There are boat, snowmobile and helicopter options if you want to shorten the trip. STF does not operate the boat, snowmobile, or helicopter services, so travelers need to book those options through local providers in the Nikkaluokta area.

I want to climb Kebnekaise’s southern peak. How do I get there?

The Southern Peak is accessible via both the Western and Eastern routes. The Western route is considered easier, while the Eastern route is more challenging. We recommend using a guide on the Eastern route, especially in winter time.

What kind of shape do I need to be in to climb Kebnekaise

Climbing Kebnekaise requires solid endurance and strength, as both the Western and Eastern routes feature significant elevation gains of about 1,800 meters (5,900 feet) from the base to the summit. Climbers should be in good shape, prepared for long, strenuous hours on varied, challenging terrain, including steep ascents and icy sections on the glacier.

How long does it take to climb Kebnekaise?

The Western Route typically takes 10-15 hours for a round-trip, and the more technical Eastern Route takes about 8-12 hours.

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