Climbing Kebnekaise – a guide to Swedens highest mountain

Practical tips for climbing Kebnekaise

Climbing Kebnekaise requires planning and preparation, regardless of whether you attempt it in summer or winter. Here are some important things to keep in mind:

1. Physical fitness: You need to be in good shape to handle a long day of hiking or skiing in steep, varied terrain. Prepare with longer hikes or endurance training such as running, cycling, or skiing, ideally with a backpack.
2. Packing for summer: Wear good hiking boots, windproof and waterproof clothing, warm layers, and spare clothes to change into in case of sweaty or wet conditions. Pack energy-rich food, drinks, and a first aid kit. Don’t forget sunscreen, a hat, a map, and a compass. Bring at least two pairs of gloves; at high altitudes, it can be cold even in summer, and it’s nice to have dry gloves to switch into.
3. Things to consider during winter: Don’t forget snow protection, such as a buff for your face. It’s important to have avalanche equipment and knowledge of how to use it if you’re heading out into more exposed parts of the mountain.
4. Weather conditions and safety: Regardless of the season, the weather can change quickly. Always bring extra clothes and closely follow the weather forecasts before setting out. Never go out in conditions you can’t handle or don’t feel comfortable in. A wind shelter is lightweight to carry and provides extra warmth if something goes wrong. Read more about mountain safety here.
5. Food and drink: Bring enough food and water for the whole day. Quick energy sources like nuts, energy bars, and chocolate are great to have on hand for both summer and winter climbs. A thermos with something warm is always a good idea. Pack extra food in case you are delayed by bad weather.
6. Guide or not: If you are unsure about the terrain or lack experience with mountain hiking or summit attempts, book a guided tour, especially if you plan to take the eastern route or ski in the winter. Book a guide through STF Kebnekaise Mountain Station.

The western route to Kebnekaise

Distance and time
The Western Route is a physically demanding hike, covering a total distance of about 18 km round trip, with an elevation gain of approximately 1800 meters. The terrain is very rocky, uneven, and steep, which often makes the hike feel longer and tougher than the distance suggests. The hike takes between 10 to 15 hours, depending on physical fitness and individual conditions. Some may complete the hike faster, while for others it can take longer. Prepare for a long day outdoors.

Trail layout and terrain
The Western Route is the most common path when climbing Kebnekaise’s south summit independently. The trail starts westward into Kitteldalen, following Kittelbäcken. After passing the Vierranvarri mountain, the trail descends into Kaffedalen, from where it follows a nearly straight line up to the summit. The steepest ascent begins after Kaffedalen, with a 400-meter climb to the Old Summit Hut, and another 200 meters to the summit glacier.

At times, there are large water flows in Kittelbäcken and Jökelbäcken, especially in the afternoons. Heavy rainfall, spring thaw, and glacier melt can make crossing the streams difficult. Talk to the guides at the mountain station before heading out to avoid being stranded. Trekking poles and wading shoes are useful. Do not cross barefoot, as you may injure yourself.

The first 5 km of the trail up to the pass between Tuolpagorni and Vierranvarri are marked with red-painted stones and rock piles. Summer can bring poor weather and low visibility, making the trail markers hard to see, and in winter, they are entirely covered by snow. Therefore, it is important to be able to navigate with a map and compass or GPS. After about 4 km, you reach the bridge over Kittelbäcken and the beginning of the stone staircase built by Sherpas from Nepal between 2017-2019. From the end of the staircase, the trail is marked with aluminum poles with red reflectors.

Despite these improvements, it’s important to be aware that the trail passes through high alpine terrain, where weather and wind can change quickly. Always carry a map and compass or GPS, and don’t rely on having cell phone coverage along the trail.

Once the snow has melted off the summit, crampons are needed to stand on Kebnekaise’s south peak. The summit is narrow, steep, and very exposed. Show respect to other summit hikers, have the right equipment, and be cautious.

Safety and winter ascents
Being in an alpine environment like Kebnekaise increases the safety risks for you and your companions. You should carefully plan your summit attempt and ensure you have the necessary equipment and food in case of an accident or if your hike takes longer than expected. If you are in distress and need help, mountain rescue/alpine mountain rescue will assist you, reachable through the police at 114 14 or 112. Be prepared for rescue efforts to take time, as mountain rescue personnel may not always be able to reach you immediately. So, be prepared, avoid venturing out in bad weather, and listen to the recommendations of those with more experience in alpine environments.

If you plan to climb Kebnekaise in winter, we recommend taking the Eastern Route with a guide.

The eastern route to Kebnekaise

Distance and time
The Eastern Route is a shorter, unmarked trail of 15 km round trip, estimated to take about 8-12 hours depending on physical condition and the season. It presents significantly more challenges than the Western Route, with difficult sections such as crossing the Björling Glacier and climbing along the Via Ferrata. The trail’s accessibility can vary greatly from year to year and with the season.

Recommendation to go with a guide
For those without experience in glacier hiking and climbing, it is strongly recommended to go with a guide. STF Kebnekaise offers guided tours that include all necessary safety equipment, such as a backpack, poles, harness, helmet, and crampons (if needed). In winter, the same path is used for ski ascents.

We advise against attempting the Eastern Route without a guide from STF or an authorized mountain guide (SBO). These guides have extensive knowledge of the mountain, current conditions, technical sections, and the trail route.

Risks and safety requirements
Hiking the Eastern Route involves more risks that require specific knowledge and equipment. One of the greatest hazards is rockfalls, which are difficult to predict during the climb. The glacier crossing, where crevasses and snow bridges can collapse, is also a risk. Since the glacier is constantly shifting, its structure changes from year to year, making it necessary to have the proper knowledge and equipment for safe glacier travel.

Maintenance and safety at the Via Ferrata
STF Kebnekaise owns and maintains the Via Ferrata system, which is inspected every other year and checked before each guided tour. However, the system is not inspected at other times, so STF is only responsible for safety during its guided tours. Using the Via Ferrata without STF or SBO guides is at your own risk.

Weather conditions and equipment requirements
Kebnekaise is an alpine environment where weather conditions can change rapidly. Cliffs that are sunlit and dry one moment can quickly become covered in snow and ice. This requires additional equipment and knowledge to navigate safely in this environment. Bring gear and clothing for the worst possible weather. If you are unsure about the clothing or equipment the guides at STF recommend for a summit attempt, check out the information sheets for the guided activites on the STF Kebnekaise Mountain Station website.

Contact for more information
For questions regarding equipment or safety aspects, feel free to contact the sports department at Kebnekaise Mountain Station for more information and recommendations.
Phone: 0980-550 00
Email: kebnekaise.sport@stfturist.se